Category: Mt. Whitney

Kurt and Ben at Whitney Portal ready to begin their climb.

This is a 2-day climb of Mt. Whitney’s Mountaineer’s Route as told by Kurt Wedberg.

Ben is from the UK where he is a student ready to finish up law school.  Taking some time off he was on the tail end of an 8 month trip around the world.  One of the last stops on his journey was California where he had hoped he could get a shot at climbing Mt. Whitney.  I was in the office on a Friday afternoon when the call came in.  Ben was in Lone Pine and wanted to know if we had any guides available to lead a climb of Mt. Whitney starting tomorrow.  It is hit and miss whether or not we have somebody available on such short notice.  It is always worth asking the question though and in this case I just happened to be free.

I quickly finished up at the office and went home to pack gear and food.  I met Ben the next morning in Lone Pine where we divided up gear, packed, and drove up to Whitney Portal.  The last time I was here was at the beginning of June on a stormy attempt at Mt. Russell.  I was curious to see how much snow had melted since then and how full the creeks would be.  They have been swollen and overflowing in other regions of the Sierra.  The weather forecast was looking promising and everything was shaping up for a nice climb.

As we made our way up the North Fork of Lone Pine Creek we found the creeks here to be every bit as overflowing as other areas of the Sierra.  Snow had melted off up to Lower Boyscout Lake at 10,300’/3139m and only small patches remained up to Upper Boyscout Lake at 11,300’/3444m.  Not only had the melted snow caused the creeks to swell but it had also given way to wildflowers that were now out in force decorating the trail as we ascended to Upper Boyscout Lake where we planned to camp.

The long day ahead would mean an early dinner and a predawn start.  Ascending above Upper Boyscout Lake we hit continuous snow at 12,200’/3719m.  Crampons and ice axe were indicated from here as we ascended up the 40 degree snow to Iceberg Lake at 12,600’/3841m.  As the sun rose it cast an orange glow on the sheer east faces of Mt. Whitney, Keeler Needle, and Day Needle.  Above Iceberg Lake the snow felt like Styrofoam underfoot making for perfect cramponing right up the 35 degree slope.  Temperatures remained pleasant with little wind and a clear sky.  The snow ended about 300 vertical feet below the notch at 14,000’/4267m.  Turning south we looked up the final 500’/150m that leads to the highest point in the contiguous United States.  The terrain steepens to 40+ degrees requiring the use of hands and feet over the 3^rd class terrain.  Using a small rope for security we moved quickly over the terrain and found ourselves signing the register of the summit of Mt. Whitney at 9AM.

The descent had us retracing our steps back to camp where we packed up and continued down to Whitney Portal arriving in time to enjoy burgers from the Whitney Portal Store where they make the best bacon cheeseburgers on the planet!!  Thanks Ben for a great climb!!

A few pictures are below.  The entire photo gallery can be found here:  Mt. Whitney July 9-10, 2011.

Snow plants are plentiful near the pine trees in the ower North Fork of Line Pine Creek.

Ben at the first swollen creek crossing on the North Fork of Lone Pine Creek.

Red columbine

Ben on the route above Lower Boyscout Lake.

Ben on the granite slabs below Upper Boyscout Lake. The water running over the rock comes from the outlet of Upper Boy Scout Lake and makes for a pretty scene as we ascend to the lake.

Upper Boy Scout Lake

Summit day has arrived!

Ben navigating by headlamp with the first signs of sunrise from the east.

Morning light on beautiful Mt. Whitney.

At a rest break before starting up the Mountaineer's Chute we put away headlamps, adjusted clothing layers, and applied sunscreen.

In the middle of the Mountaineer's Chute with Iceberg Lake below.

Polemonium "Sky Pilot" high in the Mountaineer's Chute. This beautiful wildflower only blooms above approximately 12,000'/3657m in the Sierra.

Topping out at the "notch" at 14,000'/4267m

The final 500'/152m of the route that leads to the summit.

Ben making some of the final moves below the summit of Mt. Whitney.

Summit photo at 9AM on July 10, 2011!!

Summit photo on Mt. Whitney May 30, 2011

While guides April Mayhew and Kurt Wedberg were on Mt. Rainier, SMI guides Zach Schneider and Tristan Sieleman  were hosting another stellar group on our beloved Mt. Whitney.  This is a description of the trip as told by Zach Schneider.

The trip started with crystal clear blue skies and chilly temps. We made our way up the main Whitney trail that is now completely free of snow. By the time we made it to Ebersbacher ledges a system moved in and we had periods of snow and wind followed by sunshine. This pattern continued until about 6pm after we made it to Upper Boy Scout Lake.

The North fork trail is also free of snow until the steep switchbacks just before the ledges. Where the trail crosses the creek (where the water fall is) the water was high and the trail is flooded and very icy. We had to bush whack a bit just down stream to cross the creek. The ledges are in fine condition except for a giant log that is wedged between a rock and the cliff. A few stemming moves and a large step up gets one through this crux relatively easily.

Real snow starts at the notch just before Lower Boy Scout Lake and continues all the way to the summit. Sun cups are beginning to form on the slope above LBSL. Thankfully it has been cold enough and the snow line high enough that we did not need snow shoes and were not post hole-ing.

We woke up to a crystal clear Memorial day with little wind and went for our summit attempt. Conditions were about as good as they get, with firm snow and easy travel from camp all the way to the beginning of the mountaineers route. In the couloir itself we found a few inches of new snow that was over a melt freeze crust. Good conditions for kicking steps. Just below the notch the snow is melted out and is mostly rock.

Snow still covers most of the chute after the notch all the way to the summit and is great neve conditions for the last three pitches. The summit was cold and a little breezy but all in all a fine day to summit! An uneventful descent brought us back to camp and a great 4 cheese tortellini and pesto dinner. At about 11pm like a light switch being turned on we started getting hammered by strong winds that lasted all night and through the next day and the hike out.

A great trip trip with lots of laughs and all five team members getting to the summit and back safely.

Congratulations to the Hall team and thanks to International Mountain Guides for the support on this trip!

~Zach Schneider

On April 28 our second group from Summit For Someone showed up at Lone Pine for a Mt. Whitney climb raising money to help Big City Mountaineers take inner city urban teens on 7 and 8 day wilderness adventures this summer. Each of the seven participants on this trip raised a minimum of $3800 for the program. Each summer Big City Mountaineers gives under-resourced kids between ages 13-18 opportunities to experience the beauty of our wild lands and cultivate relationships with caring adult mentors. Summit For Someone is a fundraising effort for this program. People raise money for climbs that Summit for Someone books through SMI. The money raised goes towards funding these wilderness adventures for the teens. The program has been highly successful and SMI is proud to be associated with this highly respected and successful program.

Under a pleasant day the team left from the trailhead at Whitney Portal. The first day of the trip is always a good opportunity to get comfortable with some of the participants gear and equipment that may be new since their last adventure. The team worked out adjustments on packs and fine tuned the fit on boots as they ascended to camp 1 at 10,350 feet. Arriving at Lower Boyscout Lake mid afternoon the team set up tents and settled into camp. There was time to enjoy the scenery on this clear day. A hearty meal was followed by the team retiring to their tents for a good nights sleep.

April 29 saw the weather change from completely clear at 8 AM to snowy by 10 AM. Weather changes quickly in the mountains sometimes and this was a great example. The team packed up and began climbing to camp 2. While the weather was never completely clear it didn’t turn into a full blown storm either. Clouds would come in and sprinkle a little snow then turn to partly cloudy skies. The team arrived at high camp at 12,000 feet mid afternoon with a 3″ blanket of fresh snow. After setting up camp SMI guide Chris Werner did some afternoon training with the team to review skills needed for summit day while Kurt cooked an Italian dinner. The weather remained a bit unsettled but by 7 PM Mt. Whitney came into view as the team retired to their tents in preparation for our summit bid in the morning.

On April 30 Chris and Kurt woke the team for a pre dawn start. Another 6″ of snow fell during the night at camp. Hot water was made and everybody ate breakfast before donning crampons and shouldering light summit packs. Weather was clear with occasional wind gusts. Chris kicked in a new trail as the sun rose from the east revealing another breathtaking morning in the Eastern Sierra as Mt. Whitney’s east face was cast in an orange glow. Arriving at Iceberg Lake at 12,600 feet team members adjusted clothing layers and put on sunscreen and sunglasses. Kurt took over cutting in a route in snow that was now over 12″ deep. As we entered the Mountaineers Chute snowdrifts became 2-3 feet deep. Moving slow and steady though the team continued to make good time up the 35 degree chute. As we ventured higher the wind gusts became stronger and more frequent. By the time we reached 13,700 feet the wind was a steady 20 – 40 mph. At the top of the Mountaineers Chute at 14,000 feet we were greeted by strong steady chilly winds. A rock outcropping provided a small bit of shelter for the team as they ate and drank while Chris and Kurt surveyed the last 400 feet of steeper snow and rock leading to the summit where we normally set up 3 pitches (rope lengths) of fixed line. In spite of the wind Chris and Kurt decided to try and set up the ropes and make an attempt at reaching the summit. Chris climbed the first pitch and a few minutes later found himself in winds hitting 70 mph. Realizing it wasn’t safe to be in winds that strong on such a cold day he radioed to Kurt and said he was coming back down.

The team took a group picture at the notch before descending down the Mountaineers Chute having made a valiant try at reaching the summit but finding the conditions on the mountain not quite in safe conditions to reach the summit. In spite of falling a little short the team still raised over $25,000 towards taking urban teens on wilderness trips. Everybody learned a lot and had an adventure with memories that will last a lifetime. As happens many times when teams return short of the summit everybody had the opportunity to learn from experience in ways that never present themselves on a climb with pleasant weather. Friendships were formed through the experiences we all had and all team members expressed a desire to return for another try.

On May 1 the team took their time descending back to the trailhead stopping many times to take pictures and to simply soak in the view. A special thanks to a great team and we look forward to climbing with you all here in the Sierra again on Mt. Whitney or perhaps on another classic Sierra peak!

Here are a few pictures. The rest of Kurt’s photo album can be found here: http://kurtwedbergphotography.com/Sierra-Trips/2010-Sierra-Trips/Mt-Whitney-April-28-May-1-2010/12033029_maRCW#853766965_sYNjX

Mt. Whitney from the Whitney Portal Road on a clear day.

Camp 1 at 10,350 feet

The team packed up and ready to start climbing to camp 2 as snow began to fall

At 10,700 feet with Lower Boyscout Lake below

Team members taking a break at 11,400 feet with clearing skies

Mt. Whitney from 11,800 feet with a fresh dusting a new snow on it

High camp at 12,000 feet

SMI guide Chris Werner (left) explaining some mountaineering techniques that will be employed on the summit attempt the next morning

From right to left: Mt. Whitney, Keeler Needle, and Day Needle glowing orange in the sunrise. When we are treated to mornings like these it is easy to see why lovers of this mountain range affectionately call the Sierra the Range of Light.

Taking a break near Iceberg Lake at 12,600 feet

Climbing up the Mountaineers Chute at approximately 13,000 feet

Spindrift blowing above indicated strong winds and gave us a preview of the conditions we would soon be facing

Approaching the Notch at 14,000 feet

SMI guide Chris Werner trying to climb the first pitch above the notch with wind gusts hitting 70 mph

Video of the winds above taken from a protected spot at the Notch

The team poses for a group picture at the Notch holding BCM flags. Thanks for the valiant effort from a great team: Gus Valentino, Garrett Herfkens, David Cerio, David Giacomin, Chuck Parker, Steve Wargo, and Mark Piretti

Each year SMI founder Kurt Wedberg gives a series of informational clinics about climbing Mt. Whitney hosted by Adventure 16 stores in Southern California. The clinics are divided into two parts. Part 1 took place in February. This was part 2. Mt. Whitney continues to be one of the most popular mountains in the United States for people to climb. These clinics are always well attended. Some are looking to climb this beautiful mountain for the first time and others return year after year to add another great life experience to their memory box. These clinics are always fun for attendees who have the opportunity to pick the brain of the foremost guide on Mt. Whitney who has climbed this mountain 100+ times by 5+ different routes. Kurt’s presentations include a slideshow detailing equipment, planning and preparation, tips on training, safety issues including lightning, bears, and mountain medicine issues, and a question and answer session.

SMI would like to thank Icebreaker for their help in sponsoring this latest round of Mt. Whitney slideshows. Icebreaker manufactures top quality base and insulating layers of outerwear made from pure Merino wool from New Zealand. Check out their products at Adventure 16 stores or online at www.icebreaker.com.

Kurt presenting at the San Diego Adventure 16 store on April 14

Kurt explaining training tips during a presentation

Winter storms continue to be a part of the Sierra spring this year. Our latest trip began under a warm and windless day on April 10. The Whitney Portal Road has been melting out and although the road is still closed it is now drivable as the road crews have been clearing out rocks that have pelted the asphalt as they normally do all winter long. John Wedberg graciously drove down from Bishop to give the group an assist with a car shuttle. We would get a ride up to Whitney Portal and he would drive our vehicle back down below the “Road Closed” sign.

The group climbed to Lower Boyscout Lake on Saturday. The North Fork canyon continues to melt out on the warmer days. We are now switching our route to go up the Ebersbacher Ledges instead of heading straight up the canyon. Arriving at our campsite in the afternoon wind started to kick up. After a Thai dinner the group retired to their tents as the wind picked up in intensity. The night was a rather noisy one with unabated winds and gusts hitting over 50 mph.

The morning of April 11 revealed not only winds but increasingly cloudy skies. We received an updated forecast predicting 2+ feet of new snow over the next 24 hours. We discussed our options with the group. After weighing out the various options of trying to continue to high camp, staying at Lower Boyscout Lake and training, or descending and using the days to do some training in various mountaineering techniques the group decided to descend.

Here are a couple pictures from the trip. The rest of the photos can be found here.

After close to 2 weeks of clear spring conditions the weather turned colder and stormy on the days preceding our latest climb. A recent storm had moved away on March 31 leaving behind a cold mass of air that brought a clear sky and crisp winter temperatures. With two more storms forecasted to move through our area during the scheduled dates of this trip we began on April 1 prepared for any conditions we would face. SMI guides Kurt Wedberg and Sara Berghoff plus long time good friend George Dunn from International Mountain Guides hosted a group of nine eager climbers, most of whom had never visited the Eastern Sierra before. The group included: Jean Dawkins, Cooper Klinges, Pat Loftus, Chuck Norman, Hako Olevie, Jeff Paddock, Rick Paddock, Norma Ryan, and Viki Tracey.

After eating breakfast and dividing group loads the team drove up to 6800 feet where we began walking up the Whitney Portal Rd. The road is most dry now except for avalanche debris that stops cars from driving any higher. The first hour was spent walking 3 miles to the beginning of the summer trailhead at 8350 feet. We hiked on the Main Mt. Whitney Trail for 40 minutes to the cut off to the North Fork of Lone Pine Creek. The trail was mostly dry but soon after turning onto the North Fork we hit snow and ice. The North Fork Cyn continues to hold lots of snow and the cold temperatures made for firm conditions that were easy to walk on. Arriving at Lower Bouscout Lake at 10,300 feet we flattened out platforms and set up tents. A nice Thai dinner with rice, chicken and fresh vegetables the team retired to their tents for the evening. On April 2 the team woke to sunny skies but weather began changing as everybody got ready to move to our high camp at 12,000 feet. The team moved well and after leaving at 9:45 am they arrived at high camp 3 hours later. As the afternoon wore on the weather turned windy and stormy. Dinner and hot drinks were served and consummed inside people’s tents. As we went to sleep that evening we were experiencing wind gusts in excess of 60 mph.

The wind continued through the night but at 5 am it abated and the clouds had cleared away. The team got up and began rallying for a summit attempt. After a hot breakfast and gearing up with crampons, ice axes and helmets we roped up and began our climb. Ascending first to Iceberg Lake the team then traversed up and right into the Mountaineer’s Chute. The recent storms had left snow that required breaking a new trail on the lower 1/3 of the route. As we moved higher the snow conditions became more firm and progress speeded up. The team moved well as the higher altitude required harder breathing while the views became increasingly spectacular. Arriving at the notch at 14,ooo feet Kurt anchored in 3 pitches of fixed lines leading to the summit of Mt. Whitney. As we ascended the fixed line it became evident that weather was changing again so efficient climbing was important so we could “sneak in” reaching the summit and descend before the impending storm hit. After congratulating ourselves on a great climb with challenging conditions it was time to head down. The team lowered down the 3 pitches of fixed line then descended down the Mountaineers Chute. By the time everybody reached Iceberg Lake Mt. Whitney was covered in clouds and the wind picked up. The team moved well getting back to camp. We were a group of satisfied but tired climbers as everyone got settled in their tents while the wind picked up again and snow began falling.

Here are a few photos. The entire photo gallery can be found here: http://kurtwedbergphotography.com/Sierra-Trips/2010-Sierra-Trips/Mt-Whitney-April-1-4-2010/11733643_pFvQ3#828147600_Ksmbk

The team from left to right: Hako Olevie, Jean Dawkins, Jeff Paddock, Rick Paddock, Chuck Parker, Kurt Wedberg, Cooper Klinges, Norma Ryan, Sara Berghoff, Viki Tracey, Pat Loftus, George Dunn

Pat and team ascending the North Fork of Lone Pine Creek on day 1

The scenery is pretty at every turn in the route. Here as the spring snow begins melting it reveals the Lone Pine Creek’s North Fork running underneath.

Hako enjoying the climbing in the North Fork shortly after crossing the creek over a solid snow bridge

The team enjoying hot drinks in the afternoon at camp before dinner.

Viki, Norma, and Sara

Moving to high camp on day 2

Summit morning has arrived! Donning crampons before the start of our ascent.

After a stormy night Mt. Whitney proudly displayed its East Face as the sun rose.

George, Jean, Jeff, and Pat ascending the Mountaineers Chute above Iceberg Lake.

Norma, Cooper, Viki, and Hako pause for a photo high in the Mountaineers Chute.

The team taking a break at the Notch at 14,000 feet while Kurt sets the fixed lines.

With the lines fixed the team ascends the final 3 pitches (rope lengths) of the route to the summit.

Jeff on the final pitch showing us how its done.

Pat Loftus

Hako Olevie

Cooper Klinges

Jeff Paddock

Jean Dawkins

Norma Ryan

Viki Tracey

George Dunn

Congratulations team on a great climb!!!

Snow conditions on Mt. Whitney have been shaping up to be some of the best we have seen in a couple years. After returning from a successful climb last week that capped off a very memorable 5-day Mountaineering Skills Seminar we were excited to return with a new group of people. SMI guides Kurt Wedberg and Sara Berghoff and long time good friend George Dunn from International Mountain Guides met a group of 9 eager and excited climbers in Lone Pine on the morning of March 25. After having breakfast and sorting out group loads we headed up the Whitney Portal Road to begin our 4-day climb. The climbers we hosted were: Nick Binson, John Delury, David Griffith, Steven Lane, Jim Sannebeck, Ryan Sommers, Michel Suignard, Taylor Tran, and Correna Wood.

Our walk during the winter/spring always begins on the Whitney Portal Road to the summer trailhead. Currrently this walk begins at about 6800 feet. The summer trailhead begins at 8350 feet. Soon we were on a trail that became increasingly snowy. Turning up the North Fork at 9000 feet we ascended the last 1300 feet to Lower Boyscout Lake. The team dug tent platforms in the snow and got settled. Hot drinks and a Thai dinner then led to the team retiring for the evening. On day 2 we moved to our high camp at 12,000 feet. The snow conditions were firm and made for excellent walking with crampons on. The team moved efficiently to our camp where we got settled. In the afternoon we reviewed some techniques team members would need to know for our ascent on the following day.

Day 3 saw the team rise early and begin our ascent wearing headlamps. We continued to be blessed with excellent snow conditions up to Iceberg Lake. Here we removed out headlamps and enjoyed a beautiful sunrise as team members learned why the Sierra is nicknamed the Range of Light. Continuing higher we entered the Mountaineers Chute where the slope angle increases to 35 degrees. Staying roped together the team employed efficient cramponing techniques while continuing to breath harder in the rarified air as they made their way up the chute on perfect spring snow conditions as the views around become increasingly more spectacular. After topping out at a notch at 14,000 feet Kurt anchored in 3 pitches (rope lengths) of fixed line and the team began the steepest climbing on the route. Shortly thereafter the team was congratulating each other on a great climb.

Here are a few highlights. The rest of the pictures are here: http://kurtwedbergphotography.com/Sierra-Trips/2010-Sierra-Trips/Mt-Whitney-March-25-28-2010/11656446_h5yBC#821984930_gJtBz

The team ascending the North Fork of Lone Pine Creek on day 1.

The view of Mt. Whitney from our camp at Lower Boyscout Lake.

Day 2 ascending towards high camp with perfect snow conditions.

Enjoying the view of the Alabama Hills in the Owens Valley during a rest break

Nearing our high camp Mt Whitney (right) comes into view

Our high camp at 12,000 feet

Donning crampons and gearing up for a pre dawn start for our summit bid

Sunrise from 13,000 feet on Mt. Whitney

Michel, Taylor, and Jim enjoying the excellent cramponing conditions on the Mountaineers Chute

Sara, Cory, and Steven high in the Mountaineer’s Chute

George, John, Ryan, and Nick nearing the top of the Mountaineers Chute

Looking up at the final 400 feet where Kurt would set the fixed lines

The team nearing the summit on the final pitch of fixed line

Ryan Somers

Michel Suidnard

Steven Lane

Jim Sannebeck

Taylor Tran

Nick Binson

Correna Wood

John Delury

Sara Berghoff

George Dunn

Congratulations to a great team!!

The guides from left to right: Kurt Wedberg, Sara Berghoff, George Dunn