The Ice Is Here!!

On Saturday we visited Lee Vining Canyon for the first time this season.  With the recent cold temperatures the ice is forming and climbing is now possible for beginning through advanced levels.  Currently as we write this it is storming in the Sierra with the first of a series of systems expected to hit the area this week.  No doubt a lot more ice will be formed up soon!  Here are a couple highlights from the day.  The rest of the pictures are here:  http://kurtwedbergphotography.com/Sierra-Trips/2009-Sierra-Trips/Lee-Vining-Cyn-Dec-5-2009/10550857_jXnfU/1/732779755_cQWdu

Lori and Heidi geared up and ready for a great day.

Heidi swinging tools on Chouinard Falls

Lori poses for the camera at the beginning of a climb.

Heidi lowering off after a successful climb.

Polemonium Peak via U Notch Couloir, October 10-12, 2009

The U Notch Couloir, like all the gully climbs in the Sierra that don’t melt off, is hard ice during the fall months.  In the spring time Sierra gullies are filled with snow and make for excellent steep snow climbs.  Over the course of the summer many melt freeze cycles turn the snow into ice.  The U Notch had been “set up” for ice climbing back in July.  By October we now had solid ice with a coating of fresh snow from a recent storm that was up to a foot deep in places.  These varied conditions made for a challenging and rewarding climb.

After topping out on the U Notch we turned south to Polemonium Peak.  Named after the famous Sierra flower that only blooms above 12,000′ in the Sierra, Polemonium Peak is one of five 14ers along the crest above the Palisade Glacier.  At the U Notch we took off our crampons for the couple pitches of low 5th class rock climbing that lead to the summit of this very enjoyable climb.

This climb also would mark the final California 14er for Ben to climb.

Here are a few highlights.  The entire photo gallery is here:  http://kurtwedbergphotography.com/Sierra-Trips/2009-Sierra-Trips/Polemonium-Peak-October-2009/9942984_pYKqM/1/678654937_HwWqs

The U Notch Couloir on the right rising above the Palisade Glacier. The left couloir is called the V Notch.

Crossing the bergshrund where the Palisade Glacier separates from the cliff above creating this crevasse.

Ben climbing on the hard ice on pitch #2

Ben still looking strong near the top of the U Notch

Ben finishing up the first pitch of low 5th class rock climbing en route to the summit of Polemonium Peak

Ben near the summit of Polemonium Peak with Barrett Lake and the Palisade Basin far below.

Congratulations Ben on finishing all the California 14ers!!

Mt. Russell (14,086′) East Ridge, October 6-8, 2009

In the midst of the first cold snap of the fall season in the Sierra we returned to the East Ridge of Mt. Russell.  Temperatures got so cold at higher elevations it left frost on the route.  The weather remained clear and the route was enjoyable even with the frost providing an added difficulty with finding solid foot and hand holds.

Here are a couple photos of the trip.  The entire photo gallery is here:  http://kurtwedbergphotography.com/Sierra-Trips/2009-Sierra-Trips/Mt-Russell-East-Ridge-Oct-2009/9898120_JhPrj/1/674512393_nVPJR

The team ready to begin at Whitney Portal

Temperatures dipped well below freezing each evening leaving ice at every water source

Whitney Falls already looks thick enough to climb

Climbing on the East Ridge required negotiating careful foot and hand placements with the frost coating the rock

Pausing in the sun in the middle of the East Ridge

Summit success on a clear crisp fall day in the Sierra

Mt. Russell, East Ridge (14,086′) September 3-4, 2009

Pleasant temperatures and a forecast for thundershowers greeted us at the start of the Labor Day weekend.  Mt. Russell continues to be overshadowed by its much more popular neighbor Mt. Whitney to the south.  We saw very few people on the entire trip.  The forecast dictated an early start and efficient climbing to get up to the summit and down safely before any potential storm hit.  We hiked up the North Fork Canyon and set up camp at Upper Boyscout Lake.  After dinner we hit the sack early with our rucksacks packed in preparation for a planned early wake up.  The ascent went well as we moved efficiently up the route.  As we descended off the summit storm clouds moved in and we quickly descended off the East Ridge down the Southwest Chute to lower ground.  The storm dropped hail for a short time as it blew through.  We descended back to Upper Boyscout Lake, packed up camp, and returned to Whitney Portal where we enjoyed bacon cheeseburgers from the Whitney Portal Store.

Below are some highlights.  The entire photo gallery is here:  http://kurtwedbergphotography.com/Sierra-Trips/2009-Sierra-Trips/Mt-Russell-East-Ridge-Sept-09/9520818_8AxeF/1/639989408_vF2qH

The team at Whitney Portal saddled up and ready to climb

The Ebersbacher Ledges

Creek crossing below Upper Boyscout Lake

The team ready to begin the ascent long before daybreak at camp at Upper Boyscout Lake

The team pausing for a photo in the middle of the East Ridge with Lake Tuleinyo behind

The team negotiating some of the 3rd class moves on the East Ridge

The team taking time out for a quick summit photo before descending ahead of the oncoming storm

Mt. Russell East Ridge (14,086′), August 12, 2009

On August 12 it was a pleasure to climb with Betsy on my favorite 3rd class route in the Sierra.  Betsy is a lifelong visitor to the Whitney area but had never been up Mt. Russell.  We met at the Whitney Portal Hostel and drove to Whitney Portal beginning our hike long before the sun came up.  A beautiful, clear, and warm night made the approach to Upper Boyscout Lake a very enjoyable hike.  We were treated to a gorgeous sunrise high above Upper Boyscout Lake.  We were greeted with superb weather making for another enjoyable ascent of the East Ridge of Mt. Russell.  After reaching the summit we  descended down the southwest chute, over the Whitney/Russell Col, past Iceberg Lake, and down to Whitney Portal in the afternoon with plenty of time to enjoy bacon cheeseburgers at the Whitney Portal Store.  The rest of the pictures are here:  http://kurtwedbergphotography.com/Sierra-Trips/2009-Sierra-Trips/Mt-Russell-East-Ridge-August/9259727_M5WTg/1/618536412_RT9J4

Betsy above Upper Boyscout Lake before sunrise.

Sunrise on Mt. Whitney

The start of the East Ridge of Mt. Russell

Starting up the East Ridge of Mt. Russell

The narrowest part of the East Ridge of Mt. Russell

Betsy traversing on the East Ridge of Mt. Russell. Behind in the distance is Lake Tuleinyo, the highest lake in the Western Hemisphere.

Betsy pausing to enjoy the scenery on one of the "catwalks" on Mt. Russell's East Ridge

Betsy making moves on the high quality granite on Mt. Russell's East Ridge

Summit success on the East Ridge of Mt. Russell!

Norman Clyde Peak, NNE Face 13,851 feet July 31 – August 1, 2009

Norman Clyde Peak is named after the famous Sierra mountaineering pioneer.  It is located just north of Middle Palisade Peak (14,040′).   It has several high quality routes leading to its lofty summit and has one of the greatest views of any peak in the Sierra.  Because this peak gets overlooked by many mountaineers who focus on the California 14ers Norman Clyde Peak remains a hidden gem and one of the all time classic peaks in the Sierra.  The NNE Face is an intricate 3rd and 4th class ascent requiring good route finding skills and efficient climbing to make good time over its intricate route.

Sunrise of Norman Clyde Peak

NNE Ridge of Norman Clyde Peak. Our route on the NNE Face is on the right side of this ridge.

NNE Face of Norman Clyde Peak

Starting the 4th class on the upper NNE Face of Norman Clyde Peak

Greg high on Norman Clyde Peak

The summit ridge of Norman Clyde Peak

Greg on the summit ridge of Norman Clyde Peak

Greg Gerlach on the summit of Norman Clyde Peak on August 1, 2009

Kurt Wedberg on the summit of Norman Clyde Peak, August 1, 2009

View of the Palisades looking north from Norman Clyde Peak

East Face of Mt. Whitney (14,497′) July 29, 2009

Our first climb of the East Face of Mt. Whitney in 2009 was a one day car to car ascent.  Leaving Whitney Portal wearing headlamps we ascended the North Fork of Lone Pine Creek with the goal of reaching the base of the route at sunrise.  We would then climb efficiently up the route leaving us plenty of daylight to return to Whitney Portal in time for burgers from the Whitney Portal Store.

Taking a quick rest break at Lower Boyscout Lake in the middle of the night.

Polemonium's in full bloom. They only grow above 12,000 feet in the Sierra.

Sunrise at the start of the East Face of Mt. Whitney

The Tower Traverse, the first pitch of the East Face route on Mt. Whitney.

Finishing pitch #4 at the top of the Washboards.

Pitch #5 above the Washboards with Iceberg Lake behind.

The Fresh Air Traverse on the East Face of Mt. Whitney

Climbing the Grand Staircase.

As we finished off the final 5th class pitch clouds were building around Mt. Whitney

A well earned summit photo on top of Mt. Whitney!

As clouds surrounded Keeler Needle immediately south of Mt. Whitney it began to hail. The summit is no place to be in a storm so it was time to descend.

Descending the upper section of the Mountaineers Route of Mt. Whitney.

A well earned bacon cheese burger from the Whitney Portal Store.

North Lake to South Lake via Lamarck Col July 23-24, 2009

Our guests on this trip were a group of fun loving adventurous guys from Orange County who wanted to do an overnight backpack trip and cover lots of mileage.  After considering several trip options we settled on this loop trip.  This route covered a lot of ground over two days.  In addition to the 35+ miles our elevation gained and lost added to the challenge.  Starting at 9250+ feet we hiked up to Lamarck Col at almost 13,000′ then descended down to the John Muir Trail where we ended up at Wanda Lake at 11,426′ 12 hours after we began.  After a good dinner of pad thai with shrimp and vegetables we went to sleep prepared to wake early for day 2.

We woke early and were hiking before 7 AM.  A short ascent got us to Muir Pass at 12,000 feet then a long very scenic drop in elevation over a 7 mile period as we headed south on the John Muir Trail.  We turned off the JMT at the LeConte ranger station at 8900 feet.  The next 6.6 miles was an ascent through Dusy Basin to Bishop Pass at 11,972′.  Finally we descended the last 6 miles down the Bishop Pass trail to the South Lake trailhead at 9600+ feet.

The weather has isolated storm cells around but none of them ever got near us so we stayed dry the whole time.  The scenery was gorgeous the whole time.  The Sierra wildflowers were in full bloom.  The scenery included an abundance of blue alpine lakes, meadows, pine trees, white granite spires, and patches of snow.   A great time was had by all and we celebrated that evening in Bishop with a big dinner at Whiskey Creek.

Group photo at the North Lake trailhead.

The first of many creek crossings we would encounter over the next two days.

Gaining elevation on the way to Lamarck Col with North Lake in view.

At Lamarck Col and looking great!

Approaching Darwin Canyon after dropping off Lamarck Col

Traversing the unnamed lakes in Darwin Canyon

Taking a break below Darwin Bench on our cross country route headed towards the John Muir Trail. Evolution Valley below us on the right.

Creek crossing at the inlet to Evolution Lake at 10,800 feet

Wanda Lake at 11,426 feet. Our camp site at the end of day 1.

Wanda Lake shortly after sunrise.

The group rested and ready to start the long journey on day 2 from Wanda Lake to the South Lake trailhead.

The Muir Hut at Muir Pass at 12,000 feet. This hut was built as an emergency shelter for this very remote part of the John Muir Trail

Silhouette on top of the Muir Hut

Helen Lake as we descended from Muir Pass. The trail traverses along the right shoreline then begins the descent into LeConte Canyon.

Shooting Stars in bloom along the trail

The snow melted off late this year after the Sierra experienced an unusually stormy June. We encountered several snow patches that were still recently revealing creeks and waterfalls. Beautiful!

Looking back at LeConte Canyon as we started up towards Bishop Pass

River coming from Dusy Basin flowing over granite slabs.

Dusy Basin

Bishop Pass. It's all (mostly) downhill from here!

One final break before reaching the trailhead at South Lake. Still smiling!

A happy group of great guys at South Lake. Time for showers and food!

Celebration time at Whiskey Creek in Bishop

Mt. Williamson (14,375′) / Mt. Tyndall (14,018′) June 29-July 3

Exciting views of remote part of the Sierra and supurb route conditions greeted us on this annually scheduled SMI trip.  We allow 5 days to tackle two of the Sierra’s most remote 14ers.  Mt. Williamson at 14,375′  is the second highest peak in California and access to the peak is restricted past July 15.  Mt. Tyndall lies outside of the closure area located closer to Shepherd Pass.  The climbs are enjoyable ascents involving 3rd class climbing over excellent quality Sierra granite.  Breathtaking views from the summits add to the majestic beauty of these peaks.

Back row left to right: Ed Saenz, Lori Nissen, Julie Harden, Reid Lidow, Cory Cline. Front row guides Sara Berghoff and Kurt Wedberg

Julie, Kurt, and Ed relaxing at camp before dinner.

Mt. Tyndall lit up by early morning sunlight as seen from our approach to Mt. Williamson

Beginning up the West Face of Mt. Williamson

Lori, Julie, and Ed enjoying climbing the steep snow high on the West Face of Mt. Williamson.

Ed and Julie on the 3rd class finish on the West Face of Mt. Williamson.

Summit photo on Mt. Williamson

North Rib of Mt. Tyndall from camp

Cory, Reid, Ed, and Sara beginning the ascent of the North Rib of Mt. Tyndall

Sara topping out on the North Rib of Mt. Tyndall

Ed on the summit block of Mt. Tyndall

Mt. Sill, Apex Couloir 14,153′, 4314m

March 23-25, 2009

We were treated to clear weather in the Sierra backcountry over Memorial Day weekend this year.  Chuck Raper, Patricia Twomey, and Dustin Wunderlich joined guides Rick Poedtke and Kurt Wedberg for a classic climb in the Palisades region of the Sierra.

Mt. Sill is one of the few Sierra peaks that was named by the indigenous Piaute indians who inhabited the Owens Valley.  Their name for it was “Nee-na-mee-she” which is translated “Guardian of the Valley”.  Today it is a classic 14er in Californa and the view from its summit is considered one of the finest in the entire Sierra.

Our route was the Apex Couloir on Mt. Sill.  This route is also called the “North Couloir” but since there are so many couloirs that go by that name I prefer calling it the Apex Couloir.  The snow conditions remain excellent in the Palisades right now.  We were treated to four pitches of climbing at 40 – 45 degrees.  We then exited the route to the right where we climbed a pitch of 3rd to low 5th class rock that led to one more pitch of 50+ degree snow.  One final 4th class pitch led to the ridgeline on Mt. Sill where we scrambled up to the summit.

Here are a few pictures.  The entire gallery can be viewed here:  http://kurtwedberg.smugmug.com/gallery/8329693_LrcYi/1/545818744_wQKSG

The Palisade Glacier with Mt. Sill on the left.

Left to right: Rick Poedtke, Chuck Raper, Patricia Twomey, Dustin Wunderlich, Kurt Wedberg

Chuck and Dusty on the 3rd pitch of the Apex Couloir.

Chuck and Dusty at the belay ledge at the top of the 4th pitch.

Chuck and Dusty climbing near the top of the 5th pitch.

Chuck and Dusty nearing the top of the 6th pitch.

Chuck and Dusty at the belay station at the top of the 6th pitch.

Chuck and Dusty rock climbing on pitch 7.

Chuck and Dusty nearing the classic summit of Mt. Sill with a breathtaking view of the Sierra all around. It is easy to see why this peak is known for offering one of the finest views in the Sierra!

High five on the summit of Mt. Sill!

Summit photo. Left to right: Dustin Wunderlich, Kurt Wedberg, Chuck Raper.