Mountaineering Skills Seminar March 17-21, 2010

On March 17 Brett Watson and Ryan Wordell joined Kurt for a private Mountaineering Skills Seminar. These seminars are designed to introduce people to the world of mountaineering. Over a 5-day period we cover as many topics as possible covering a range of different skills that can be used on climbs in the Sierra and on high peaks world wide. We decided to conduct the trip in the Mt. Whitney region where snow conditions have been shaping up nicely all season. There is also a large ice flow that consistently forms below nearby Thor Peak. After training on a variety of skills we capped off the week with an ascent of Mt. Whitney’s Mountaineers Route where we put into practice many skills learned over the previous few days.

A few pictures are below. The rest of the pictures can be found here:

Brett and Ryan demonstrating excellent ice axe self arrests

Brett learning ice climbing techniques

Ryan showing proper belaying skills

Ryan taking his first try at ascending fixed lines using prussik slings

Brett looking like a pro on his first rappel

Kurt testing a snow anchor built by Brett and Ryan. It held successfully!

The boys geared up and ready for a pre dawn start on summit day

Mt. Whitney in morning alpenglow from Iceberg Lake. The Mountaineer’s Route is a chute on the right side of the mountain.

Ascending the Mountaineers Route on Mt. Whitney

Brett and Ryan using efficient cramponing technique up the steep final 400 feet of Mt. Whitney’s Mountaineers Route

Ryan topping out on the final pitch of climbing on Mt. Whitney

Summit photo on Mt. Whitney, March 20, 2010

Sierra Winter Ice Climbing Season Finishes Off Strong

The winter ice climbing season normally begins sometime in November as the temperatures consistently enough to allow ice to form in Lee Vining Canyon and June Lake. This year ice began forming in November and by December we had enough to begin climbing on it. As the season progressed the already good ice continued to improve. Conditions remained great in February and with cold temperatures continuing to prevail the season stretched right into the middle of March. bNow our focus is shifting to the springtime. We are busy guiding climbs on the Mt. Whitney’s Mountaineer’s Route, going backcountry skiing, and are getting out on the rock more often. Stay tuned for updates on some of these adventures.

Believe it or not California actually has ice climbing for most of the year though. As spring turns to summer the snowpack melts except in areas that don’t receive much sun. There are many gullies in the Sierra that contain permanent snow that turns to ice through many melt/freeze cycles. By later in July many of these gullies begin forming alpine ice that make for very enjoyable climbing. Some of the more popular climbs include North Peak, Mt. Dana, the V-Notch Couloir in the Palisades, the Mendel Couloir on Mt. Mendel, Checkered Demon, among others. We are taking sign ups now for these and other popular summer and fall climbs.

Here are a few pictures highlighting some of our last days of climbing for the winter season.

Rachel Hurlburt learning about the world of ice climbing for the first time!

Kurt Wedberg high on Lee Vining’s Bard Harrington Wall on March 9, 2010

SMI guide Sara Berghoff leading a pitch at June Lake

Leading a pitch of ice on Lee Vining’s Main Wall

SMI guide Trevor Anthes leading a pitch of thin ice on Lee Vining’s Bard Harrington Wall

Kurt Wedberg topping out on Lee Vining’s Main Wall as light snow begins to fall

Ice Climbing in Lee Vining Canyon January 31, 2010

The ice climbing season is in full swing in the Eastern Sierra. During the fall months as the temperature drops ice begins to form in the high walls in Lee Vining Canyon. Our first trip out there was in early December. Since that time the ice has slowly been getting more and more “fat” as water continues to drip down the walls and freeze at night. Freshly back from a successful expedition to Aconcagua we were anxious to check out the ice conditions. After teaching a Level 1 Avalanche Course on January 22-24 we then got our chance! Below are a few photos from a visit on January 31. The entire photo gallery is here: http://kurtwedbergphotography.com/hack/feed.mg?Type=gallery&Data=11112564_nBCKL&format=rss200

Chouinard Falls at Lee Vining Canyon on January 31, 2010.

The Ice Is Here!!

On Saturday we visited Lee Vining Canyon for the first time this season.  With the recent cold temperatures the ice is forming and climbing is now possible for beginning through advanced levels.  Currently as we write this it is storming in the Sierra with the first of a series of systems expected to hit the area this week.  No doubt a lot more ice will be formed up soon!  Here are a couple highlights from the day.  The rest of the pictures are here:  http://kurtwedbergphotography.com/Sierra-Trips/2009-Sierra-Trips/Lee-Vining-Cyn-Dec-5-2009/10550857_jXnfU/1/732779755_cQWdu

Lori and Heidi geared up and ready for a great day.

Heidi swinging tools on Chouinard Falls

Lori poses for the camera at the beginning of a climb.

Heidi lowering off after a successful climb.

Polemonium Peak via U Notch Couloir, October 10-12, 2009

The U Notch Couloir, like all the gully climbs in the Sierra that don’t melt off, is hard ice during the fall months.  In the spring time Sierra gullies are filled with snow and make for excellent steep snow climbs.  Over the course of the summer many melt freeze cycles turn the snow into ice.  The U Notch had been “set up” for ice climbing back in July.  By October we now had solid ice with a coating of fresh snow from a recent storm that was up to a foot deep in places.  These varied conditions made for a challenging and rewarding climb.

After topping out on the U Notch we turned south to Polemonium Peak.  Named after the famous Sierra flower that only blooms above 12,000′ in the Sierra, Polemonium Peak is one of five 14ers along the crest above the Palisade Glacier.  At the U Notch we took off our crampons for the couple pitches of low 5th class rock climbing that lead to the summit of this very enjoyable climb.

This climb also would mark the final California 14er for Ben to climb.

Here are a few highlights.  The entire photo gallery is here:  http://kurtwedbergphotography.com/Sierra-Trips/2009-Sierra-Trips/Polemonium-Peak-October-2009/9942984_pYKqM/1/678654937_HwWqs

The U Notch Couloir on the right rising above the Palisade Glacier. The left couloir is called the V Notch.

Crossing the bergshrund where the Palisade Glacier separates from the cliff above creating this crevasse.

Ben climbing on the hard ice on pitch #2

Ben still looking strong near the top of the U Notch

Ben finishing up the first pitch of low 5th class rock climbing en route to the summit of Polemonium Peak

Ben near the summit of Polemonium Peak with Barrett Lake and the Palisade Basin far below.

Congratulations Ben on finishing all the California 14ers!!