Mt. Russell Fishhook Arête, August 10, 2010

Mt. Russell (14,086′, 4293m) is located immediately north of Mt. Whitney.  Although overshadowed by it’s much more popular the routes are more challenging and many Sierra aficionados consider them more aesthetically beautiful.

The Fishhook Arête is an 8-pitch climb with the hardest moves rated at 5.9.  Viewed from the south the ridges distinct shape is easily seen.  The rock is high quality granite in a magnificent setting offering spectacular views all around.

Mt. Russell's Fishhook Arête leads straight off the summit towards us i the center of this picture. Half way down the ridge it angles left.

Long time friend of SMI Ken Lewis joined SMI founder Kurt Wedberg for a climb of this classic route.  Ken climbed the East Face of Mt. Whitney with us car to car in one day last summer and wanted to step it up a notch this year.  We met the Whitney Portal trailhead with headlamps on for the approach to Mt. Russell.  We picked our way up the North Fork of Lone Pine Creek and walked past Lower Boyscout Lake, Upper Boyscout Lake, and Iceberg Lake.  As the early morning sun started to turn the eastern horizon several pretty shades of orange we found ourselves at the Whitney/Russell Col ready to traverse to the base of Mt. Russell.

Ken at the Whitney/Russell Col with Iceberg Lake below and the orange color of dawn on the horizon.

The suns rays casting an early morning glow on the Mt. Whitney massif as seen from the Whitney/Russell Col.

The weather was clear and a morning breeze kept the temperature cool.  We roped up and began climbing the first couple of pitches of mid 5th class moves.  The route then traversed off the ridge to the left before climbing straight up to a notch in the ridge.  With exposure on both sides the ridge leads us straight up along superb quality granite.  Every move higher reveals increasingly dramatic views of Sequoia/Kings Canyon National Park to the west and sights as far as Death Valley to the east.  The route takes us through a chimney necessitating pressing our feet and backs against opposite walls in a couple places before reaching blocky sections above.  The final two pitches take us over blocky terrain with sections of 5.7 to 5.9 climbing that take us straight on to the summit of Mt. Russell.

Thanks Ken for a great day!!

A few more pictures are below.  The entire photo gallery from this climb can be seen here:  Mt. Russell Fishhook Arête,  August 10, 2010.

Ken enjoying the climbing on the first pitch.

Ken traversing on pitch #3.

Ken climbing above the north on pitch #5.

Looking up at pitch #6.

Ken on pitch #8 removing a #2 Camalot on the short 5.9 hand crack that tops out at the summit of Mt. Russell.

Summit photo!!

Thanks Ken for a great day!!!

Mt. Russell’s East Ridge June 5-6, 2010

After a rather stormy month of May in the Sierra we were blessed with warming temperatures, clear skies, and calm winds on the first weekend in June. The East Ridge of Mt. Russell is one of the most fun and exhilarating 3rd class climbs in the Sierra. For many Sierra aficionados this is their favorite all time 3rd class climbs. The combination of excellent quality rock, great views, fun climbing on a classic ridge, and the opportunity to climb one of the California 14ers make this climb a truly memorable experience.

Our team consisted of Cory Cline, Nathan Fletcher, Demetria Gianopoulos, and Richard Stotts plus guides Peter Douchette and Kurt Wedberg. We met at the Whitney Portal Store at 8 AM on Saturday morning. After introductions and dividing up group gear we began hiking up the North Fork of Lone Pine Creek. The creeks have never been more overflowing than they are right now. Stones we normally use to hop across the water were submerged. We all made it through the various crossings and these impasses only added to the fun and adventure of the day. The snow is all melted up to Lower Boyscout Lake. Above there the snow gets patchy. From 11,000 feet and higher the snow becomes more or less continuous. We camped at Upper Boyscout Lake which is still frozen over. We found dry ground to pitch our tents and organize ourselves for the climb in the morning.

We woke before sunrise getting an early start up the chute below Mt. Carillon. A nice tongue of snow made for good cramponing leading to the plateau below Mt. Carillon. We then traversed to the start of the East Ridge where we roped up. The route was mostly dry with a couple interspersed snow patches. We were blessed with warm pleasant weather and clear skies that offered wonderful views in every direction. Below us to the north was Lake Tuleinyo, which is the highest lake in the western hemisphere. Reaching the 14,086′, 4293m about 5 hours after leaving camp we took a break then descended the SW Chute, climbed over the Whitney/Russell Col, down to Iceberg Lake, and looped around to our camp. We packed up and descended back to Whitney Portal in time for the best burgers in the Eastern Sierra.

Here are a few pictures. The full photo gallery is here: http://kurtwedbergphotography.com/Sierra-Trips/2010-Sierra-Trips/Mt-Russell-East-Ridge-June-5-6/12462449_6ZJSb#892624479_7BSWL

The team at Whitney Portal. Back Row left to right: Cory Cline, Peter Douchette, Richard Stotts, Nathan Fletcher. In front: Demetria Gianopoulos and Kurt Wedberg

Snow Flowers or Snow Plants (Sarcodes sanguinea are actually fungus that grow off the roots of pine trees. They sprout up after the snow melts and always are a pretty site to see.

Demetria negotiating one of several creek crossings.

Nathan getting through another creek crossing of the North Fork of Lone Pine Creek.

Richard, Cory, and Peter on the Ebersbacher Ledges en route to Lower Boyscout Lake.

The team climbing the pretty granite slabs en route to Upper Boyscout Lake.

Peter, Richard, and Nathan ascending the snow tongue below Mt. Carillon. Behind is Mt. Whitney, Keeler Needle, and Day Needle basking in the early morning light.

Demetria and Cory enjoying the climbing on the East Ridge of Mt. Russell.

Nathan and Peter negotiating the 3rd class terrain on the East Ridge of Mt. Russell.

Demetria and Cory on the East Ridge of Mt. Russell with Lake Tuleinyo below.

Peter and Nathan near the top of the East Ridge of Mt. Russell.

Cory and Demetria crossing a snow patch just below the slightly lower East Summit of Mt. Russell.

Nathan and Peter shortly before the summit of Mt. Russell.

Summit photo on Mt. Russell. Back row left to right: Peter Douchette, Nathan Fletcher, Cory Cline. Front row left to right: Kurt Wedberg and Demetria Gialopoulos

Crossing the North Fork of Lone Pine Creek.

Mt. Russell (14,086′) East Ridge, October 6-8, 2009

In the midst of the first cold snap of the fall season in the Sierra we returned to the East Ridge of Mt. Russell.  Temperatures got so cold at higher elevations it left frost on the route.  The weather remained clear and the route was enjoyable even with the frost providing an added difficulty with finding solid foot and hand holds.

Here are a couple photos of the trip.  The entire photo gallery is here:  http://kurtwedbergphotography.com/Sierra-Trips/2009-Sierra-Trips/Mt-Russell-East-Ridge-Oct-2009/9898120_JhPrj/1/674512393_nVPJR

The team ready to begin at Whitney Portal

Temperatures dipped well below freezing each evening leaving ice at every water source

Whitney Falls already looks thick enough to climb

Climbing on the East Ridge required negotiating careful foot and hand placements with the frost coating the rock

Pausing in the sun in the middle of the East Ridge

Summit success on a clear crisp fall day in the Sierra

Mt. Russell, East Ridge (14,086′) September 3-4, 2009

Pleasant temperatures and a forecast for thundershowers greeted us at the start of the Labor Day weekend.  Mt. Russell continues to be overshadowed by its much more popular neighbor Mt. Whitney to the south.  We saw very few people on the entire trip.  The forecast dictated an early start and efficient climbing to get up to the summit and down safely before any potential storm hit.  We hiked up the North Fork Canyon and set up camp at Upper Boyscout Lake.  After dinner we hit the sack early with our rucksacks packed in preparation for a planned early wake up.  The ascent went well as we moved efficiently up the route.  As we descended off the summit storm clouds moved in and we quickly descended off the East Ridge down the Southwest Chute to lower ground.  The storm dropped hail for a short time as it blew through.  We descended back to Upper Boyscout Lake, packed up camp, and returned to Whitney Portal where we enjoyed bacon cheeseburgers from the Whitney Portal Store.

Below are some highlights.  The entire photo gallery is here:  http://kurtwedbergphotography.com/Sierra-Trips/2009-Sierra-Trips/Mt-Russell-East-Ridge-Sept-09/9520818_8AxeF/1/639989408_vF2qH

The team at Whitney Portal saddled up and ready to climb

The Ebersbacher Ledges

Creek crossing below Upper Boyscout Lake

The team ready to begin the ascent long before daybreak at camp at Upper Boyscout Lake

The team pausing for a photo in the middle of the East Ridge with Lake Tuleinyo behind

The team negotiating some of the 3rd class moves on the East Ridge

The team taking time out for a quick summit photo before descending ahead of the oncoming storm

Mt. Russell East Ridge (14,086′), August 12, 2009

On August 12 it was a pleasure to climb with Betsy on my favorite 3rd class route in the Sierra.  Betsy is a lifelong visitor to the Whitney area but had never been up Mt. Russell.  We met at the Whitney Portal Hostel and drove to Whitney Portal beginning our hike long before the sun came up.  A beautiful, clear, and warm night made the approach to Upper Boyscout Lake a very enjoyable hike.  We were treated to a gorgeous sunrise high above Upper Boyscout Lake.  We were greeted with superb weather making for another enjoyable ascent of the East Ridge of Mt. Russell.  After reaching the summit we  descended down the southwest chute, over the Whitney/Russell Col, past Iceberg Lake, and down to Whitney Portal in the afternoon with plenty of time to enjoy bacon cheeseburgers at the Whitney Portal Store.  The rest of the pictures are here:  http://kurtwedbergphotography.com/Sierra-Trips/2009-Sierra-Trips/Mt-Russell-East-Ridge-August/9259727_M5WTg/1/618536412_RT9J4

Betsy above Upper Boyscout Lake before sunrise.

Sunrise on Mt. Whitney

The start of the East Ridge of Mt. Russell

Starting up the East Ridge of Mt. Russell

The narrowest part of the East Ridge of Mt. Russell

Betsy traversing on the East Ridge of Mt. Russell. Behind in the distance is Lake Tuleinyo, the highest lake in the Western Hemisphere.

Betsy pausing to enjoy the scenery on one of the "catwalks" on Mt. Russell's East Ridge

Betsy making moves on the high quality granite on Mt. Russell's East Ridge

Summit success on the East Ridge of Mt. Russell!